September 5 – Cizur Menor to Puente la Reina with detour to Eunate

I did not have a good sleep. I had one of those tickle coughs and couldn’t stop coughing. Not wanting to disturb other sleeping pilgrims, I lay awake muffling my cough with my towel. Wake up was early 6 am and we started off at 7:35 am. Since there was no breakfast at this Albergue, we stopped at the first cafe open and had a cafe con leche. This leg of the journey was a distance of 19 kms, but we took a detour to to see the church that has been linked with the Knights Templar who long defended the pilgrims on the route to Santiago. The total distance walked was 23.4 kms.

Leaving Cizur Menor it is a long uphill climb passing through the middle of a long line of 30 wind turbines and upon reaching the top is a monument to pilgrims entitled Alto del Perdon, (the hill of forgiveness)

20120905-205612.jpgWhere the wind and the stars meet
There were wonderful views of Pamplona and the surrounding hillsides. The decent was very steep and you had to watch your step. A 65 year old woman from Denmark who had just started her Camino at Pamplona, fell and had to have the ambulance called for her.

We (Rogerio, Janet and I) kept crossing paths with previous pilgrims we had met before and talked to pilgrims walking alone. It was very warm and as we made the decent from monument we stopped for lunch at Uterga. This gave me the opportunity to take my boots off and let my feet breathe. My lunch was a can of sardines and an apple followed by a few handfuls of dried fruit and nuts that I was still carrying from St. Jean Pied de Port.

Fortified by lunch and a well deserved rest, my walking companions decided to see the church at Eunate which is a 2.8 kilometer detour off the path. The path to the church went past fields of sunflowers and corn. There were also a few vineyards with huge bunches of grapes ready for harvest. And, yes, since I had already been over the hill of forgiveness, at two different times I stole two bunches of grapes. They were so delicious, sweet and juicy.

The Romanesque church at Eunate was built in the 12th century modeled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The church is octagonal and has a splendid freestanding outer porch with twin pillars that surround the church. The windows are created of alabaster. Tired and very hot from walking the extra kilometers, I took my shoes and socks off and let the cold water run over my feet. Also, I stuck my head under the tap which felt so good.

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It was 4:35 pm by the time we reached Puente La Reina or Queens Bridge named such because of Dona Mayor, wife of Sancho III built the bridge to support the safe movement of the pilgrims over the river Arga, all of us were hot and tired. Thankfully the first Albergue still had bunks available. A couple from Oregon, Thomas and Carol had also been to Eunate and walked with us to Puente La Reina. The three of us women were hot, and tired and headed for the shower. We were oohing, awing as we enjoyed the hot shower. All of a sudden, someone commented, “I’ll have what they are having.” Someone else said, “Yes, this moment is better than sex” These comments are a reflection of the orgasm scene in the movie When Harry Met Sally We all enjoyed a laugh. Since we had not eaten lunch we went to the closest bar and had tortilla – like an egg and potato omelette. Since there was no WIFI at the Albergue, we needed to find a bar that had a connection. On the way we stopped at Iglesias del Crucifijo. While just a small church, the acoustic sound was outstanding, We also went inside the Iglesia de Santiago. What an ornate church. I didn’t take any pictures as a mass was taking place. Oft times the WIFI connection is poor so upload takes time or doesn’t happen at all. This bar did not have a very fast connection so my blog did not go thru.

Upon returning to the Albergue, there was just enough time to organize for the next morning. Lights were out a 10 pm.

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Arre to Cizur Menor then bus to Pamplona

It is hard to get used to having 20 other people in your sleeping quarters. It is like the dormitory setting at camp. Lights are out at 10 pm but it takes a while for people to settle down. Last evening some one got up to use the washroom and turned on all the lights by accident which resulted in half of the room then using the restroom. It took a while before the room settled down again.

We were out the door at 7:30 am just as it was getting light. This Albergue did not offer breakfast so we headed to the nearest cafe for coffee. Thus fortified, we set off at 7:55 am.

Today seemed to be a harder day than the previous one and we traveled a distance of only 10 kms. Most of the journey was thru suburbs of Pamplona and we didn’t have a foot path until after Pamplona. The group enlarged by two. Gabriele from Germany and Tina from Brugge walked with Janet, Rogerio and myself. At various times during the course of the morning we would meet various people who had stayed at the previous Albergue.

We arrived in Cizur Menor which is 5 kms beyond Pamplona just as the Maribel Albergue was opening its doors at 12 noon. We took off the boots, had a shower and then took the bus back into Pamplona to site see. We walked mainly the old town. Saw a few haunts of Ernest Hemingway and the large arena where the famous running of the bulls takes place. We strolled the streets where the bulls charge up admiring the buildings and the shops. We stopped at the Cathedral de Santa Maria. It was built over the remains of a Romanesque church. The cloister was erected in 1492 and is one of the most beautiful in Europe. There was the old town hall and justice buildings. The old part is lovely with the old architecture and atmosphere.

There are a lot of people getting rid of extra objects that they have found are too large and not needed or they have one too many like four T shirts, or blue jeans. Anything that has a lot of weight is being sent back home or left at the Albergue for other pilgrims to use.

Tomorrow I will go as far as the feet will carry me heading toward Puente La Reina a total distance of 19 kms.

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20120904-201715.jpgRogerio, Gabriele and Tina reading about Ernest Hemingway at the bull arena.

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Zubiri to Arre

In these Aubergues you are up early and must be in your way by 8 am. After a quick breakfast of cafe leche (coffee with milk), bread and cheese and cold cereal, the day begins. All pilgrims are in a rush to have a quick breakfast and head to the pathway. As I decided not to walk as far this day, I took my time getting my gear together and slowly warm the muscles up.

There was a lot of up and down but the path was well trodden. The speedy pilgrims were already long gone and it was just the slower ones who followed along at a gentler pace. In Osteritz, the first cafe leche was consumed. Janet and I met Rogerio, a Brazilian who is living and working in Arizona and invited him to walk with us as we were only doing about 15 kms and were planning to stop at the Albergue Trinadad de Arre in Arre. This Albergue is 5 kms from Pamplona which would provide an easy walk and, also, provide enough time to visit the city. We decided we would walk another 5 kms to Cizur Menor, find an Albergue to stay, leave our back packs and have a bed reserved for the night then take a bus back to Pamplona for our city tour.

We stopped in Larrasoana for lunch. The cafe/bar was located in a garden that featured an outdoor pizza oven. I had a delicious fruit salad along with another cafe leche. We added three others to our group. Roger from Australia who was going slow because of several large blisters on his foot and an English couple Kelly and Chris. Chris was having problems with his knee. Thankfully Janet had an elastic bandage to wrap his knee. We slowly progressed the ups and downs of the path heading toward Arre located 9 kms away.

It was 13:37 when we strode into the Albergue Trinadad de Arre. This Albergue is located in a church that dates back to 1150. We were shown to our bunk beds in a room of 16. The Fab 3 from England had already registered and Tina from Brugge was also heading for the shower.

After a lovely shower, I headed with Rogerio, Tina, and Roger from Australia to find a pharmacy. In Spain stores are closed from 2 to 5 pm and supper is anytime after 7 pm. Since the pharmacy was not open till 5 pm, we found a bar and had a cafe leche. After picking up band aids, we headed to the grocery store to pick up breakfast and lunch items.

Supper was spinach salad, chicken and yogurt for dessert. I shared this meal with the Fab 3 and enjoyed many laughs with these ladies. I am now sitting in a bar with WIFI to post this and then head back to the Albergue for an early night.

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September 2 – To Zubiri

It was still dark as I left the Aubergue at 6:45 am, the sun had yet to show its happy face. It was difficult getting up as during the night the fire alarm went off twice so my sleep was not restful. And, everyone in the Aubergue moves at the same time. Everyone has between 6 and 8 am to get up, dress, and out the door. This Aubergue did not offer any breakfast, instead there were vending machines where various food items could be purchased.

I opted to forego the machines hoping Burguete 3 kms down the road would have coffee and maybe some snacks. I was able to get the coffee but all that was offered were bread products. I decided to press onward. I joined another Canadian lady, named Janet, from Cambridge, Ontario and we trudged together. Another 11 kms at Espinal we stopped for a longer break, more coffee, had a bathroom break and rested our feet and had about 15 minutes without the backpack on.

Also, had to shed my fleece and jacket and put on my silk shirt with another 9 kms to go to reach Zubiri. A total of 25 kms for the day.

We arrived in Zubiri at 14:37. My feet hurt, my knees hurt and my thigh muscles were aching. I was so thankful that the first auberge we stopped at, did have room at the inn. Believe me, a hot shower never felt so good. In my room there are three bunk beds and an additional three single beds – a total of seven women and two brothers in our room.

It was a very, very, long day. Too long. I think I will shorten the next couple of days just to get more conditioning for walking and maybe let the crowds thin out a bit. There are a lot of people walking at this time of the year.

Passing thru the different villages along the way, you noticed when many of the homes were built. Most of the houses have a sign stating when the house was built. I saw many constructed in the 1700s – 1737, 1757, 1787 and others in the 1800s and early 1900s. Along the trail, I was able to enjoy some blackberries. There were elderberries ripe for picking and in one spot there was a clump of autumn crocus blooming. Every so often you would bump into pilgrims you had met before or new ones trudging along. I had a short Spanish lesson from a young civil engineer from Madrid named Roderico. He also passed on a few tips of what to eat for evening meals. We parted ways as he joined a group of Spanish girls resting in a shady spot.

20120902-181453.jpgThe village of Zubiri was a most welcome site today

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This house dates back to 1738 with the family crest displayed
20120902-181421.jpgLiked the socks hanging under the window

I enjoyed an evening meal with five other women, Eliene from Barcelona, Gabrielle from Germany, Ann from Wales, Pivey from Finland, Janet from Ontario and myself. We discussed the walk, what Aubergue each was staying at and, with help from Eliene, was able to order from a Spanish menu.

Tomorrow, I plan to only walk about 15 kms and then see if I can find an Aubergue for the evening.

My joys for today:

Finding the black berries along the path which were so-so-so good!

The hiker who ran after me to return my walking pole that I dropped because I was focused on getting my picture taken.

Gian for carrying my backpack up to the second floor after arriving aching and tired at the Aubergue.

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September 1 – From Aubergue Orisson Over the Pyrenees

Having completed 8 kms of The Route de Napoleon, I only had a little over 17 kms to trek before reaching the first Spanish village of Roncesvalles. The Route de Napoleon is the route that has the highest elevation of 1,450 m at Lepoeder lookout.

Although I was able to capture the sunrise at Orisson, the clouds soon moved in and I needed my headband, jacket and gloves for the major part of the journey. I started at 7:30 am and I walked into Roncesvalles at 1:24pm.

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There were many pilgrims starting out early. Although my journey is solo, I passed many who had shared the evening meal with me in Orisson. I was surprised at how well my body felt with my backpack. In St. Jean Pied de Port, I purchased a small backpack that I could wear in the front and fasten backwards and then strap my larger pack over the straps of the smaller one. This, I found worked really well as the smaller straps provided some cushioning for the weight of the larger pack.

The views were spectacular with the low cloud cover nestling in the valley and the flocks of sheep dotting the hillsides and the birds of prey floating in the air currents.
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The decent down into Roncesvalles was steep and the knees were starting to ache as I entered the village. I found the Auberge, got my passport stamped and went to Hotel Roncesvalles who is providing an evening pilgrim meal. At this moment, I am sitting in the reception area to access Wifi and update my blog.

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My joys for this day:

A chorus from the bells of the sheep drifting over the hillside as they move along their grazing path.

The birds of prey circling and drifting with the currents in the sky above.

The two wonderful French men who had a snack wagon just before the Spanish border. What a delight to have a warm cup of coffee and purchase some fruit and cheese for along the way! The wind was really whistling and it was chilly. Many blessings to those men.

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Pourquoi

It was 7 am when all pilgrims were shooed out the door of the auberge and it was thus that I began my journey to Santiago de Compostelo.

I have reached the first stop refuge auberge Orisson which is 8 kms from St. Jean Pied de Port and all uphill. There was some trail along the road and then up thru rural farmland with sheep grazing and lush green hillsides. It drizzled along the way so some of the going was slippery. And, now as I sit here in the cafe, watching the pilgrims come in for refreshment and to relax for a bit, the sun has broken through the low cloud cover.

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I began this journey on August 31 a month that features another blue moon. Not, unlike January 1, 2010 when I used the light of another blue moon to climb Mt. Sinai in Egypt. If I had known what those months ahead held for me, I can only hope this journey ahead will be met with the same courage, faith, grace and tenacity.

It was during this visit to Egypt that I heard of this walk called the El Camino. I was visiting my daughter JoAnna and dinner guests one evening were Paul and Suzanne. Paul is a Canadian and Suzanne from Sweden. Paul had started walking the El Camino and Suzanne had joined him in Leon and upon completion of the hike, they were married in Santiago. That was the first planting of the idea. While in Egypt, I read Paulo Coelho’s book, The Pilgrimage, and, while fiction, this further nurtured the germination of the idea.

Upon returning home, the coincidences continued to happen. JoAnna mentioned that a friend and her mother were planning to walk in the Fall of 2010. Later, I went to a travelogue of a member of my hiking club who had completed the El Camino.

The journey since January 2010 has been been difficult, filled with family and personal circumstances that maybe, just maybe, that moonlit journey up Mt. Siaini was the inspiration needed to meet each crisis.

I am approaching my 61st birthday and, now officially in the winter of my life, am seeking how to approach this stage with grace, dignity and joy.

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The last leg of the journey to St. Jean Pied de Port

I had a late start to my morning. It was just after 9 am when I left the hotel for a quick walk about within a small area around the train station to have some breakfast and take in a few sights before taking the train to Bayonne and then to the starting point of the El Camino at St. Jean Pied de Port.

I walked a few blocks and stumbled upon a market place. I was able to pick up two apples and some nuts for my journey. Farther along was St. Michel’s cathedral. I walked down Victor Hugo street taking in the old buildings, the people of Bordeux lingering over their morning expresso and croissants and store grates being rolled up for the day. I discovered a cathedral which has the bell tower separate from the church to reduce the vibration of the bell ringing. Staying on victor Hugo street, I came to the meeting place with the crooked tower.

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I returned back to collect my backpack and head for the train station with hopes of finding a cafe for a breakfast of protein. I enjoyed my egg and cheese omelette and another half cup of French coffee. I was very happy that this cafe provided a carafe of water at no charge.

I headed into the train station to locate what platform I needed to make my connection. I found the platform and was trying to decifer if I indeed was on the right platform. I was looking at the people arriving at the platform when suddenly ahead of me was someone with the exact same deuter backpack as mine. The young lady had spied my El Camino badge that I had glued to my backpack and informed me that she too was heading to St. Jean Pied de Port to walk the El Camino. Her name was Ericka and she is an architect from Brasilla, the capital of Brazil, and was spending 31 days on her journey. She had been planning this trip for 20 years since reading Paulo Coelho’s book The Pilgrimage at the age of 13.

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Our train was an half hour late leaving Bordeaux but once underway both of us had a nap.
Once we arrived in Bayonne, we knew we were definitely at the right station as there were other pilgrims waiting for the train. The train to St. Jean Pied de Port was all up hill, the countryside changing from flat farmland to rolling hills, streams and many more trees.

Ericka had prebooked her albergue at the L’Esprit du Chemin, so after exchanging emails I headed to the Accueil pelerins to check in. There were five volunteers assisting pilgrims as they arrive in this small village to begin their journeys to Santiago de Compostela. Thanks to Jacques who gave me various instructions about the route ahead, was able to call ahead and reserve a spot for me at the albergue in Orisson which is 8 kms from St. Jean Pied de Port.

Jacques was also able to find a gite for two nights, so I can have a day of rest before starting. He did give me a map showing where Zuharpeta was located. After checking in and ditching my backpack and boots, I went in search of food just a few steps from the gite. Upon returning to the gite, a couple from Luxembourg were enjoying their evening meal in the common room. They had spent twelve days walking in reverse from Logrono to St. Jean Pied de Port. We chatted about their journey and bidding me good luck on my journey, I headed to my room.

My joys in this day:

Meeting Ericka. I wish you well on your journey as I know how nervous you were. Enjoy the other European cities after your walk. Stay in touch. Let me know how you liked the train station in Berlin.

The wonderful volunteers who guide pilgrims and make their journey a little less stressful.

The young woman who was kind enough to walk me to the gite after I somehow made a wrong turn. I wonder how I did that, I even had a map!

The cute puppy who begged for my pistachios on the train. Yes, even dogs can travel the train. I don’t know it a ticket is required though.

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In Transit

Today, August 28th, is a travel day as I continue southward thru France. Left Mont St. Michel via bus. Enjoyed the French countryside of rolling hills, many, many fields of corn, grazing cattle, and fields of baled hay which reminded me how alike various parts of the world are. I spied distant church spires indicating villages. There were apple orchards and what I think were choke cherries and garden patches. I am just not fast enough with the iPad. By the time I get in position for a shot, the bus has already passed and, consequently, I have deleted lots of pictures of trees flashing by.

There was an hour to get a snack and a half a cup of coffee and pay .40 euros for a bathroom break before boarding the train to Nantes.

Another hour wait and then boarding the 14:13 train for Bordeaux, a four train ride. This train was packed. And…when I was unsure of my dates when purchasing the tickets, the agent did not give me a seat number…I became a “train seat floater”. This means I could sit in an empty seat until the person boarded with that specific seat ticket, then I would have to move to another seat vacated by someone who had left the train during one of the stops.

A young woman who I sat beside for the longest explained the seat situation to me and how there is a fluctuation of prices depending of the time of day you travel. She also explained that there was only the one train line down the coast of France, so between the larger centers the trains are crowded. Also, being the end of August, a lot of people are ending their vacations and returning home.

I will have three hours in the morning to take a quick tour of Bordeaux. Here are a few shots taken going back to my hotel after eating supper.

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Second Day Absorbing Mont St. Michel

All was quiet as I slipped down the circular stairway from my room to reach the outer wall and down to the mud flats. Before breakfast I wanted to walk to a small island that I had seen the evening before. To my surprise, during my night of slumber, water had crept into the channel and the island was surrounded by water.

I meandered back toward the fortress watching the sun catch the water in the channels and the light and shadows on the abbey. I also kept my eyes peeled for treasures in the mud. The skies were clear and I thought that by evening I would be able to capture a phenomenal sunset shot.

The shops were opening their doors and the first of the day’s tourists were starting to arrive as I sat on the outer wall enjoying the sunshine and breakfast of eggs, cheese, crusty baguette and cured salmon. Once fortified, I browsed the shops making my mental wish list of the purchases I would make if I wasn’t traveling light. I did purchase some post cards and a few prints of the island and thanks to a post office located just inside the drawbridge entrance, I mailed a few mementos back to Canada.

There are four museums located within the fortress, a historical, a fantasy light technical show, historic home of Bertrand Duguesclin, Knight in the 14th century and his wife, Tiphaine de Raguenel, a famous astrologist who read the destiny of the world in the stars. Must have been a interesting household!! The fourth museum is a Maritime Museum showing the tidal phenomena and a collection of 250 model boats. Since I didn’t have time to tour all and walk the abbey too, I chose the historical museum covering 1,000 years of history, the monks who lived and dedicated their lives to the building of the abbey. I found out there were numerous medieval instruments of torture and captured a picture of a bed of nails high up above in the wall by wheel for lowering the drawbridge.

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As I was negotiating the alleys, stairways and crowds, I spied a single older woman wearing a lovely red hat. I commented, “What a lovely hat!” For the first time in several days, she answered back in perfect English, “Thank you, it is just great because I can squish it up for packing”. Suzy was from Australia and was traveling with her 77 year old mother. We chatted about what we enjoyed about France and the places we had journeyed through. She enjoyed Bordeaux and the area around Carcassonne. We walked and chatted for about fifteen minutes and since she had already toured the abbey, we went our separate ways.

The abbey! It is hard to find words to describe a magnificent structure that was constructed over 1,000 years ago.

My fascination was with the doors of all shapes and sizes, the markings on the individual doors and the hardware. The cloister was lovely with the intricate detailing at the top of the moldings, each one a different leaf or flower. Thank goodness the way was marked as there were many twists and turns and ups and downs. The view of the surrounding area was grand. You could see the area of France across the channel and in the distance sheep grazing.

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After a tour of the abbey, it was too early for supper so I decided to walk around the fortress before enjoying my evening meal. I was surprised how much the channel was filling from the tidal waters. It was very zen strolling the mud flats and hearing the chants from the abbey floating downward. I did not see any monks or clergy persons during my tour but the chants were a delight to hear.

I found a few treasures in the mud and since I was traveling light I left them together with a grouping someone else had left behind. Since the clouds had rolled in and the skies were threatening to rain my picture of the island by sunset will have to be enjoyed by the postcard I mailed back to Canada.

I could have easily spent another day touring the other museums. As there is easy access from Portorson and even from Rennes, doing day trips would be feasible from cities farther afield. There were signs for several other attractions in Portorson which could be incorporated with a visit to Mont. St. Michel. If you get the chance, you will not be disappointed with a visit .

There were three people who added joy to my day.

The first, the cleaning woman who noticed my frustration in not being able to get out the front of the hotel because of a locked door, showed me how to reach the outer wall by a back entrance. There must be many of these secret passages within the walls. Even from the outside in the back facing the channel, I could see pathways leading up the hill. One area had been blocked off with a chain to keep curious people like me away.

The second, a young boy from Antwerp who was fascinated with the iPad and I was able to share a conversation with him, his mother and grandparents who were on vacation.

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The third, the lady with the red hat

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One final picture

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Three Hours To Enjoy Rouen

After a restless night – must have been those three desserts and coffee from last evening – I once again went in search of French coffee and to discover treasures I had not seen on the previous two days.

I passed by the restoration taking place at the Hotel de Ville and the Saint-Ouen Abbey Church which was one of the most powerful Benedictine monasteries in Normandy between the 14th and the 16th centuries. There was no admittance but was able to capture a few pictures.

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There was also a statue of Napoleon on this horse.

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Over a few more streets was the Palace of Justice which is also under renovation but none the less a breathtaking structure.

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I was able to capture this photo of the reflection thru a store window.

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Before picking up my backpack and heading to the train station, I spent a few moments observing the swans in a nearby park.

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My train trip was Rouen, Caan, and Mont St. Michel.
It is breathtaking, awe inspiring and a spectacular edifice!

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I have all of Monday, August 27th to explore, discover and to be amazed!

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