Enjoying Burgos on my 61st Birthday

I lay on the bunk in the Albergue until the hospitalier came and told me I had to be out by 8 am. So, I got up and quickly stuffed my clothes in my backpack because I had already booked two nights in the Norte Lourdes hotel but check in was not till 12 noon. As I was getting my boots on, I noticed Aussie Joy sitting on the bench, so I went over to have a chat with her. She was looking for a pension to stay for the day as she was suffering with a large blister on her left foot. We were talking about our travels and once again we were shooed out by the hospitalier. I know they only have a few hours to prepare rooms before the next on slaught of pilgrims barge in the doors.

I put my boots on and trudged down the street to the hotel and asked if I could stow my backpack till 12 noon. They happily agreed. I was sitting in the lobby posting yesterday’s blog because the Albergue did not have WIFI, and a gentleman came in to leave his backpack for the morning. He was from New Zealand and was walking to Leon where he would meet his wife and continue on to Santiago walking and busing. He was going to the bus depot to check bus schedules for the Meseta and I asked if he would kindly pickup a schedule for me. We agreed to meet up at 6 pm so I would have this information.

I set out for the Plaza Mayor in search of a breakfast that contained protein. I ended up at the Plaza Santa Maria and enjoyed a late breakfast of fried eggs and blood sausage along with two cafe con leches. Just as I was asking for the bill, I noticed three women passing on the far side of the plaza and around a corner. It was the Fab 3 from England! I hurried after them and caught up to them just as they were going into Abba Burgos to enquire about a room. They too were spending the weekend in Burgos and were looking to find a room. I told them where I was staying and left them to resume their room search.

While I was waiting for my room to be ready, I walked up and down, in and around the many streets of the old town. Burgos is El Cid’s territory. He was born here in 1048 and served as commander under King Alfonso VI. El Cid was exciled because of differences with the king and went on to conquer Vallencia in the south. There are seven monuments to this historical commander throughout the old city. The most noble is the bronze where he is in battle form upon his steed.

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Another monument in honor of El Cid is Solar del Cid. The three ladies in the left of the monument are the Fab 3.

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The Arcos de San Martin – this arch was created in the late 13th century by Moorish artisans and this was where the pilgrims of long ago left the city on their way to Santiago de Compostela. This arch was also the entry into the city for the Castillan kings until the 16th century.

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I passed the Murallas – the walls of the old city leaving from the Arcos de San Martin. I passed the monastry and convent but these were enclosed within a wall. I walked by the Plaza de Cadtilla with a beautiful urn fountain.

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As it was nearing 12 noon I headed toward my hotel. As I passed by the Albergue, there was a lineup of pilgrims waiting for the doors to open. And, in the lineup, we’re the Fab 3. They decided to spend one night in the Albergue and then get a hotel room for Sunday as Lydia is heading back to England via Madrid leaving Doreen and Chris to finish the El Camino as a duo. I kidded that I could take Lydia’s place but her shoes are awfully big to fill.

I asked at the hotel if they knew where I could get a massage and the receptionist said being Saturday that the possibilities were slim. I went to the place where she suggested but it indeed was closed. I passed a pharmacy on the way back to the hotel and asked if they knew where I could get a massage. They called one place but it was closed. They gave me the card with phone number for a physio. Once back at the hotel, I asked the receptionist to call and see if they were open and if it was possible to get a massage. Since it was nearly two, I was told that if I came at 5 pm, I could get a massage. I passed the three hours by washing my clothes and resting. Bless the Physiotherapist who gave me the massage. It was truly the best massage I have had. I don’t know all the instruments she used but I think there was some type of ultrasound sending tiny jolts into the muscle, plus hot and cold packs and scented oils and creams. It was the best three hours of the day!!

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As sundown was fast approaching by the time my massage was done, I walked up the hill to the castle ruins where there is an excellent view of the city and surrounding area.

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Being a Saturday, there were several weddings at the cathedral and while at the castle lookout, I was able to capture this bride and groom.

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It was after nine as I walked down the hill into the Plaza. I was looking for a chocolate dessert but could not find any but I did find a chocolatier and had four chocolates with a cafe con leche. I headed back to the hotel weaving thru all the Burgos residents who come out at night to sit in the plazas and the bars. As I turned onto the street of the hotel there was some awesome violin music coming from the bar adjacent to the hotel. As I walked up, the street musician was playing Nessun Dorma. This was the perfect setting to complete a joyously, delightful birthday. I wanted a Cava (sorry Frederik, I didn’t want to buy the whole bottle) so I settled for a glass of white wine and enjoy ed the classical music of the street musician.

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West to Burgos – September 14

I was awake early as there was a gentleman in our six bed room that insisted he needed to be up and out the door at 5 am. Since my bed was by the door, I was awakened when he opened the door. I lay awake until the lights came on at 6 am. I was dressed and out the door by 6:30 with the plan being to get a cafe con leche in the next town. It was very dark and the road was rough with rock so it was slow going. The pilgrims ahead of me both had head lamps so I was able to follow their lights.

As I reached Cruceiro 2.4 kms uphill there was a giant cross erected at the top of the hill and it made for a marvelous sunrise photo.

20120915-084336.jpgThe morning was chilly and I had to have my wool long sleeve top, jacket and gloves. Once the sun came up, it did warm up a bit. It was another 5.6 kms later that I was able to have a cafe con leche so I had two along with a much needed rest. Just after this cafe stop in Orbaneja there was an alternate route that travelled parallel to the river into Burgos. The lady at the bakery in Atapuerca had shown me on the map where to go and recommended this route as being less noisy and not having to work along the highway.

I found the cut away point. At first I thought I was the only person along this path. But, I did see two backpack figures way in the distance. This path followed the fence line for the airport for quite a way. I was finally able to catch up to the two Spanish girls just as we were entering the village of Castanares. Just as we entered this village the Spanish girls struck up a conversation with a man from the village. He was very animated when he found out we were going to Santiago. This man was our guardian angel for the remainder of the trip. He walked us 6.9 kms into Burgos and right to the Albergue. As he turned to leave, I offers him 10€ for the help but he refused. As we were waiting in line for the Albergue to open the girls said that he had told them that he had always wanted to walk the El Camino but never had. Several years ago he had had a heart attack which ended that dream but now he walks to stay healthy and was happy to escort us to Burgos. Bless that dear Spanish man.

This Albergue in Burgos is dormitory style. Each floor has 145 beds per floor and there are four floors. There is a “full” sign of the front door. After a refreshing shower, I went in search of the tourist centre as I knew they would be closing from 2 to 5 pm. I got a map of the of the city with the various important landmarks highlighted. The tourist office was closing for siesta so I headed toward the Albergue to have a siesta myself. But, as I was passing the cathedral I noticed that I could tour the church. That is what it did. I spent the next three hours being amazed and in awe of the workmanship of the various chapels within the cathedral.

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I meandered along the streets. There are various bronzes thru out the promenade and along the parkway there were street entertainers.

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I decided I needed a rest weekend, so I have found a hotel room for Saturday and Sunday. Hopefully that will give my feet and hips a rest to tackle the Meseta on Monday.

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Solo – September 13

When someone switched on the light in the room I was sleeping in, it was a surprise to me to look over to where Kathy was sleeping to see that she was gone leaving just the bare bed. I was disappointed that she did not say goodbye or express to me her desire to walk alone. So, Kathy when you read this, “thank you for sharing three days of your Camino with me. I know you are on a tight deadline and I have a relaxed schedule. I wish you much success on your walk from Leon to Santiago. Also, much luck with the new job and much happiness in the years ahead.

I was up and ready to hit the trail at 6:30 am, the earliest I have started so far. Rogerio was just getting up as I said my goodbye with a reminder to stay in touch on his Camino journey. It was still dark as I headed up the trail behind the Albergue. My headlamp is probably still in Ruby’s glove compartment as I forgot to remember to pack it. I did have a small Led flashlight that I use to get to the bathroom at night. This became my light as I sought out trail markers on the path. The first ten kilometers was hilly terrain through some type of pine trees. There were places where tracts of land had been cleared by logging and piles of logs ready for transport.

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It was serene walking thru this wonderland. Just as dawn was breaking, I saw a deer watching me through the trees. By the time I had unzipped by pack to get my iPad, the noise was enough to make the deer bound off through the trees. The trees finally gave way to open grazing land and at the 12.5 km I entered the town of St. Juan de Ortega at about 9:05 am. I passed the monastery where in 2010 restorations have begun to restore the monastery and church. The original church was constructed in 1492. That was a big year for Spain – massive development of land, churches and the discovery of the new world.

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20120913-162546.jpgMost of the area was not accessible but I was able to capture a few photos. The small windows in the church were made of alabaster although it is hard to tell by the pictures.

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Leaving St. Juan de Ortega, the path opened up into grassland. I crossed over several cattle guards but did not see any cattle only the cow pies they had left behind as reminders that they had been there. On a hillside just outside the village of Ages, I happened upon a labyrinth circle probably created by the village people below. It was very tranquil to walk the circle while having a 360 view of the area. To the north were a series of wind turbines making circles through the sky. To the east the forest of pine I had just walked thru. And to the south and west grazing land and the village of Atapuerca which would be my destination for today.

Just as I was entering the village of Ages, I finally saw the cattle heading out to pasture from the morning milking session. The farmer was in his jeep herding the cattle to where he wanted them for the day.

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I stopped in Ages for a cafe con leche just to give me enough sustenance for a 2.5 km walk to Atapuerca.

Atapuerca is another UNESCO world heritage site. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/989 I was hoping to be able to visit the caves but they are only open during the summer months. There is a museum in Burgos that I will visit on Saturday when in that city. There is also a conservation area hosting a variety of birds and marshland creatures. These wetlands are similar to Elizabeth Lake in Cranbrook. I spent a joyously delightful three hours in a bird blind. I was walking around the wetland trying to observe the various birds I saw. At one end of the first lagoon there was a fence blocking further advancement but there was a small building off to the right and I could hear voices. Earlier from a distance I saw a person walking in this direction with a tripod slung over their shoulder and I was hoping to find this person. I tried the door but it was locked. As I turned to go, the door opened and this man stuck his head out and I could see the camera equipment set up and see the wall with a poster showing birds of the area. There was also a young girl looking thru a scope. I asked if I could come and do some birding with them. The young lady was Eva Juarros (who spoke excellent English) and the photographer is Javier Otal. These two along with Diego Santamaria write and photograph for http://aveslagunasatapuerca.blogspot.com/. Eva’s scope was a Carl Zeiss 16 x 20 magnification and Javier had a Swarovski Optik spotting scope adapter making the lens a 800mm telephoto. They spend many hours each week documenting the birds in these wetlands. They do this purely for enjoyment. We saw a marsh harrier, a bearded reed tit, northern lapwing and a whole bunch of coots. It was a delightful way to spend the afternoon.

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As I was returning to the Albergue by the church, the door was open and it was able to visit the inside which was built in 1895.

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I had supper with Paivy and we caught up on our day of walking. I will probably leave earlier that her but our paths will probably cross between Burgos and Leon.
My joys of my day were:
Discovering a patch of crocus pushing their pretty pink faces thru the hard earth showing the tenacity to grow where they were planted and then trodden on by pilgrims who were probably oblivious as the pilgrims were too busy rushing to reach their next destination in hopes of finding a bed.

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Walking the circle labyrinth. It provided a grounding for my day.
And, spending the afternoon in the bird blind with strangers I did not know but discussing a subject that was their passion.
Tomorrow I am heading to Burgos.

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September 12 – Response from the truckers

One item that did not get posted with yesterday blog. After the delicious supper of broccoli and potato soup, a mixed salad, rice and beans, and everyone was relaxing, Miro went out to his car and returned with this HUGE jug of this amber liquid. Acacio filled a pitcher about half full with this amber liquid and brought it to the table. This was home stilled wine from a white grape. I don’t know the proof but I would guess the proof was at least 80 %. I only had a couple swallows – it was very smooth and very potent. After our sampling, the singing and laughter got louder. Everyone did sleep very well. Miro who had a bunk opposite me was asleep as soon as his head touched the pillow.

Our wake up call was 7 am. After a continental breakfast, Kathy and I bid Orietta farewell with a big hug and a thank you for taking care of us. We left the Albergue in hope of walking 18.6 kms for the day ending at Albergue San Anton Abad in the village of Villafranca Montes de Oca.

The day was overcast and was beautiful for walking. This area of Spain reminds me of the foothills around Sundre with the rolling hills and agriculture is the main occupation of the residents of the area.

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For about 10 kms, we followed a path parallel to the highway. My challenge for the day was to wave to all the truckers and see how many responded with a toot of the horn. So, Joe, I can joyfully say that I received 16 “little toot toots” and 5 times truckers responded with a train whistle toot.

As we were about to cross the highway before entering the town of Belorado, I recognized the backpack of a person who had just crossed the road. I called out to Paivy and she turned and waited for us to catch up. The three of is stopped for a cafe con leche at an albergue just entering the town of Belorado. We rested our feet and had a bathroom break then set out again.
The street art in the main path was outstanding. Also, in this street they had a hand and foot print of famous people from this village.

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We followed a fairly flat terrain passing thru villages where the church was the focal point in the village. We stopped again in the village of Villambistia where we took a longer break with a bocadillo tortilla francesa which is an egg omelette between two pieces of baguette and more cafe con leche. Just as we were getting ready to leave, Paivy sat down for a rest.

It was close to 1 pm when we checked in to this Albergue. The distance of 18 kms is enough for me and I am happy to relax for the rest of the day. I plan to do the same distance tomorrow with the hope I can be in Burgos by Friday.

Just as I am getting ready to post this day, Gabrielle, Elena and Rogerio walked into the Albergue. It was nice to see them. We will catch up after they refreshing showers. Rogerio and I sat in the computer area and caught up on our journeys. Rogerio, Paivy, Kathy, Ancerio from Austria and I shared a table for dinner.

Off for an early night as there is some elevation gain in the first part of tomorrow’s journey.

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Back On Track For This Day – September 11, 2012

It is really surprising that 21 kms can slip by very quickly with the inter city bus and 1.50€. Kathy and I caught the 7:45 am bus from Najera to Santo Domingo de Calzada. Just as we were leaving the bus, I bumped into Janet who was taking the bus to Burgos as she was not feeling very well and wanted some rest.

Kathy and I set out from Santo Domingo de Calzada heading to Viloria de la Rioja. The first six kilometers was an easy walk. We passed from the Rioja vineyards into the Province of Burgos.

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This area is rolling hills and again crops of sunflowers and grain. There is sheep, pig and cow farming. As we were walking the road, I passed Paivy and she was feeling much better and had paid for a hotel room the previous night where it was quiet and she was able to get some rest. We stopped in Granon for coffee and a rest. We were able to go into the church as it was open.

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At coffee, I talked with Aussie Joy and she was stopping for the day as she had feet problems and had been told to do less distance. She was going to visit the sister colony a short distance from the village and then spending the night on mattresses on the church floor.

Another ten kilometers and we arrived at our Albergue for the night and the time was 12:15 pm and the Albergue did not open until 1 pm. The website is: www.peregrinando.org.The Albergue is located in Viloria de la Rioja and is the birthplace of Saint Dominic.This Albergue is managed by Acacio and Orietta.Acacio is very involved with the Jocabeo Association which has improved the markings, pathways and the albergues along the way. The benefactor for this Albergue is Paulo Coelho who completed the El Camino in 1986. In that year only 400 pilgrims completed the French Way. This September – not yet completed – 400 pilgrims have started their pilgrimage. Paulo Coelho based his novel The Pilgrimage on his own journey.

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We had a wonderful communal supper. Everyone introduced themselves and the reason for walking the El Camino. Miro, a personal friend of Acacio and Orietta regaled us with stories and singing. It was truly a delightful evening.

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My dear friend Liz reminded me in an email that I had not been very joyful lately. So, today, I’m grateful for:

Being able to sleep late the last few mornings.
My feet are feeling better.
A wonderful afternoon of rest and relaxation.
That there is no planning for the unexpected; you just need to adapt and make a new plan.

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Making lemonade on Monday, September 10, 2012

The best made plans often go awry and then a new plan must be created.

Kevin, Cathy and I had made arrangements for a taxi to pick us up at the Albergue Puerta de Najera at 9 am for a 20 km trip to the twin monasteries of San Millan Yuso and Suso founded in the mid 6th century and have been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1997.

We arrived at about 9:30 and the tour would not start till 10 am.(So we thought).There is a hotel there which the monks have leased part of the monastery to in order to assist in the renovations needed to the buildings. We enjoyed a cafe con leche and just as we were getting ready to go to the ticket centre as we passed the reception centre, the receptionist told us that the monastery was closed on Mondays. (My previous travel pilgrim, Elena, would have known this fact and other plans could have been made.) So, once again, the plan was changed.

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There was a foot path up to Suso, so we walked to the upper monastery. The second one was smaller but set into the upper hill. It is said that these monasteries are where the Spanish language was born. The UNESCO website provides a great description: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/805

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By the time we returned to Najera it was too late to start walking as the heat of the day was approaching. So it has been a rest day. As I was coming down the stairs from the room, the Fab 3 from England had just arrived. I updated them on my adventures and they did the same. I visited the pharmacy to get band aids, sun screen and ibuprofen, sat and read and did the blog as well as chatted with JoAnna via Skype.

It will be an early night as tomorrow will be a long day. A fellow pilgrim has showed me a different way of tying my boots that will give less tension and more give in the toe area while allowing me to tighten the upper part of the laces for support.

20120910-173123.jpgoverlapping the laces allows for less tension in the toe box and less rubbing on my toes

On the trail once again.

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Sunday, September 9 – Short and Restful

Last evening’s Albergue was not the best. There were 18 beds in a 8 x 12 room that was up three flights of stairs. There was one washroom and two showers. We had to lean out the window to hang our laundry on the line.

Our group was hurting. Janet was recovering from her altercation with the brambles and the rest of us had colds and blisters. I had the top bunk up four steps and closer to the ceiling so it was hot. The room was stuffy but with my ear plugs in, I slept well. I did get up at least once to use the washroom although Elena said it was twice, so I may have done a little sleep walking. (Ha! Ha!) I know I only went down the ladder once as climbing up and down was hard on the feet. Janet poked me awake at 7:10 am. I told her she was joking with me, that it could not be that late to start walking. Her reply was, “Well, you set whatever time you like then, but I am getting up and on the path.

The sun had already risen as I left the village of Navarette.

During the previous evening, I realized that I could not do another 18 to 20 km day, so I decided that being a Sunday, I would walk 7 kms to the next village of Ventosa and spend the day resting and relaxing to let my blisters and my cold heal.

It was a lovely morning walk thru the vineyards. By 10 am I had reached Ventosa. There was a bar open and it was nice to have two cafe con leches and rest. The other three members joined our table for a break before they continued on. We talked about our crappy Albergue, how hot it was and rethinking the whole aspect of staying in albergues. Our conversation then switched to drinking water and the color of our pee and if you don’t pee all day you need to be drinking more water. We bid happy walking to the three continuing on and Janet, Paivy and I walked down to where our Albergue – the San Saturnio was. There was a sign on the door that it would open at 2 pm. Waiting at the entrance was a lady who was from Ottawa, Canada and she had also planned to have a rest day. Just as we were leaving to go back to the church, the door opened and the owner came out. We asked if we could place our bags inside and return at 2 pm for check in. He agreed. The four of us put our back packs in the main lobby. It was 10:34 am.
The mass at the church was beginning at 11 am. I thought that I needed to go because I had
“lifted” (Elena that word is for you) three bunches of Rioja grapes from the passing vineyards which had provided my breakfast and vitamin C for my cold. The Spanish mass I did not understand but it was beautiful to listen to the singing. At one point I was standing listening to the music with my eyes closed. When I opened them moments later, I was the only one standing. (oops!) Two observations: all the 36 women in attendance sat in the front and there were about 18 men who sat in the back seats. When communion was given only two men walked forward whereas most of the women received communion. So, my thought is, the men must have had a perfect week – no sinning – whereas the women must have been really contrite or maybe their conscience is much stronger than the men???!!!

I thought I had my day planned, what I did not plan for was the unexpected. I had spent the three hours relaxing and talking with Cathy and writing the first part of this blog. Cathy left about 1:30 to go stand in front of the Albergue to make sure our places were secure. I walked in at about 1:45 where Cathy met me at the door saying, “we got to go, this place is full” I protested greatly, “how can that be, it is not yet 2:00 pm. The sign on the door said, 14:00 – is that not 2:00 pm. “Yes”. Cathy replied, “but, the doors were open at 1 pm and it is now full.” Just then the taxi pulled up. Seven of us piled in and we were off to Najera. The first Albergue was full but as we were on our way to the municipal Albergue, Cathy stopped a couple and asked where they were staying and they took us to another private Albergue where Cathy and I shared a private room with twin beds and the bathroom and shower down the hall.

After checking our packs, we went in search of food. We were close to the Monastery of Santa Maria la Real and were able to take a tour.

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I have a detour planned for tomorrow with Cathy and Kevin.
For now I want to wish Margaret the very best with her surgery. Speedy recovery.

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Saturday, September 8 – Hot and unexpected

The last few days it has been hard to secure rooms at the Albergues because of the number of pilgrims traveling at this time of the year. Last evening at the plaza Rogerio, Janet and I joined forces with three other women who were traveling that we had met previously, Gabrielle, Elena and Paivy. There is a festival in Viana and a rally of some kind in Logrono so it is very difficult to get rooms. Since Elena is from Spain, she spent a great deal of time calling albergues but all were booked. We then decided to walk as far as Viana a distance of 18.6 kms then take the bus to Navarette. We were able to book six beds. We did this in hopes of getting ahead of the large group of pilgrims and then more beds would be open.

And sometimes these decisions prove to be the best in hindsight. We set off early at 7:45 am. It was cool which made the walking easier. Paivy was not feeling well so she caught the morning bus to Navarette and was going to rest for the day. The first part of the walk was easy going but since it was way early, there were no bars open for cafe con leche. The sun provided a wonderful sunrise.

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The walking was wonderful but as the sun rose higher in the sky it became hotter and hotter. We walked thru the area that had been destroyed by wildfires earlier this year.

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We were about 2 kms from Viana and were anticipating the first cafe con leche of the day plus some food. We had just come down a steep incline and the path turned sharply to the right. Elena and I were trailing Gabrielle, Janet and Rogerico. All of a sudden this cyclist came down the hill and turned into the corner. I had yelled “bike” but those ahead did not have enough reaction time to move out of the way. Janet lost her balance and fell to the side which was covered in brambles. Her legs were scratched and there was a puncture that was bleeding quite a bit. Gabrielle took charge and applied pressure to stop the flow of blood and cleaned the scratches. Elena felt that Janet should get checked by medical people to assess the injuries. We were planning to get the bus to Logrono but Elena stopped some of the villagers in Viana and was advised that there was a medical facility. They even took them there. What we did not realize was that this weekend there was a festival taking place. All the local people were dressed in red and white and there was lots of music and parading thru the streets.

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Janet was advised to rest her leg. Since we could not get any albergue in Viana, we ordered two taxis to take us to Navarette. There was a couple who could not find an Albergue so we (Janet and I) offered them to share our taxi as far as Logrono, then take us to Navarette. By the time we got to Navarette, the others were at the bar having tapas and cold drinks which were the first for the day.

While having refreshments, we saw Edith from Holland whom Janet and I first met at Orisson. She too remarked on the huge amount of pilgrims and how discouraged she was. She was just short of being 4 months on the road.

Janet is ok and wants to try walking for a bit tomorrow and then see where the day takes her.

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September 7 – Villatuerta to Los Arcos

W. H Davies has a quotation:
“Ride, Pleasure said,
Walk, Joy replied

It was an arduous 24.8 kms with the last 11.5 kms in the hot 32 degree heat.

Janet, Rogerio and I left the Albergue La Casa Magica at 7:35 am with our destination of the day to be Los Arcos.

The first 3.7 kms to Estella were the easiest of the day. Twilight was breaking and the air had cooled over nite. We made the wrong turn and missed the church we wanted to see, so we walked thru. Our next destination was the monastery of Irache where previous pilgrims said that there was a fountain where you could have a glass of wine and be on a web cam too. It was 9 am when we reached this monastery but were disappointed as the wine fountain was not gushing red wine.

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The path passed thru rolling hills with many vineyards and farmland. The day was warming very fast. We had lunch at Villamayor de Monjardin at a delightful bar that was playing salsa. We had a long rest. This village has a population of 150 people. High on the hill above the village is a feudal castle where the lord could oversee his fiefdom.

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Those last 11.5 kms were downright dreadful. It was so-o-o-o-o hot. The last 3 kms were horrible dragging one foot in front of the other. I had filled my camel bak with a full three litres plus two cafe con leche and more water at each water fountain along the way. We reached Los Arcos at 3:36 pm. The first three Aubergues were full with the only one remaining was the municipal. We were able to secure the last three remaining beds.

That shower was also delightful. I think I stood there for at least 20 minutes. After reviving, doing my laundry, I went to the local bar where I have been sitting ever since. It is now 8:18 pm, I had a salad for supper, followed by ice cream and yogurt. It is now time to head back to the Albergue which has 25 bunk beds, housing 50 pilgrims and there is very little ventilation so it will probably be a warm night for sleeping. Thank goodness for ear plugs. Since I have consumed about three litres of water, getting up to use the washroom could be eventful because I am on a top bunk.

I am just thankful that I was able to reach our destination safely. And, yes, I did steal some more grapes from a vineyard but they were so juicy for my dry throat.

I have learned that I will not repeat this long a distance again especially when the temperature is to be in the 30’s.

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September 6 – Puente La Reina to Villatuerta

The skies were just beginning to lighten as I started my day with Janet and Rogerio at 6:55. We had to walk thru the town, and, of course, stopped at the first bar open for a cafe con leche. We crossed the famous bridge created for pilgrims.

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Leaving the city behind, I stopped and looked back to watch the sun crest the hill as it hearlded the start of a new day.

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The first part of the path was steep and rough and as the day warmed proved to be tough with each step. Of course, when you go up, the downward path wound thru vineyards to Maneru where we enjoyed a short break and another cafe con leche. I did not want to walk as many kms as yesterday and set my stopping point at a city named Villatuerta because the guide book had indicated that the Aubergue La Casa Magica offered massages and foot care. I thought this would be a good ending point for my day. Rogerio and Janet were in agreement. At the next village, Cirauqui, the path was on the original 2,000 year old Roman road. This path passed many Roman ruins and bridges. The day grew very warm very quickly and the five kilometers to Lorca were hot and tiring. Rogerio and I had lost Janet as she wanted to have a bit more of a break at Cirauqui. My feet were hot and tired, so Rogerio and I stopped at Lorca where I was able to take my boots off, change socks and let my feet have a little rest while I had what is called a Bodilla something made with eggs and potatoes. Rogerio stopped to add water to his camel bak but I wanted to press onward looking forward to the massage. The last 4.7 kms to Villatuerta were tough as it was nowin thehigh 20’s with not trees to offer shade. I fell in step with Kevin, from London who had stayed the night at the church in Eunate. He also was going to stop at Villatuerta. We arrived at 1:25 pm. Simone checked us in. This Aubergue is outstanding. My room has only two bunk beds and two small alcoves each with a bed. I have one of these alcoves. But, the massage I was so hoping for was no longer available. So, after a quick shower and another quick trip to the supermarket which was closing a 2 pm for siesta, I put my hot and tired feet to soak in an epsom and vinegar bath while I had sardines for lunch. There were hammocks to lay in or a lovely shaded patio for relaxing?

20120906-185447.jpgRogerio,Lydia and Janet relaxing
Supper was a vegetarian paella made by Manuel.

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