A First – Rain and a Southwesterly

Chris and Doreen were right at home today as there was intermittent rain and a brisk southwesterly wind that made today’s walk challenging. Being fortified with a breakfast of various choices from toast, muesli, fresh orange juice, churros, hot chocolate, and plenty of coffee, we left the albergue at 7:45 am still under dark skies. We were about 2 kms out of town when the skies started to lighten and the orange of the sunrise broke thru the clouds.

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Shortly after we had to stop and put on the rain gear as the rain fell in a light drizzle until we reached Villavante 9.6 kms later. About 2 kms before Villavante, we stopped to help a young woman from TO (Toronto) who had just started the El Camino in Leon. She was struggling to get her sleeping bag strapped to her backpack. She was just a tiny woman and she had all this gear that seemed to dwarf her. I carried her sleeping bag to Villavante, then Doreen tried to make it smaller and she strapped it to the bottom of her backpack. She walked with us until Hospital de Orbigo which was our destination for the day. She wanted to press on, so we wished her luck but advised not to over extend herself in the first few days. On our walk we passed many wonderful gardens and cattle enjoying their feed. As I passed over an overpass, I again waved to the truckers and got several long blows from their horns.

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Hospital de Orbigo has one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain dating from the 13th century. The arches carry you across the Rio Orbigo via the passage of honour Paso Honrososo called because of the famous jousting tournament that took place in the Holy Year 1434. A noble knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge and presumably his honour against all comers. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. Don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances had been broken. Together with his trusted comrades, he then proceeded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honour, now restored.

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The ladies, Doreen, Chris, Penelope (from Columbia) and I have a quaint little room in an Albergue called Verde. After checking in, there was a bit of break in the rain clouds, so we went into the village to find some food. Just as we sat down and ordered our food, the rain started to fall in torrents. Our lunch was very leisurely as we waited out the rain. It was after 5 pm by the time we returned to Albergue Verde. Doreen cut up pumpkin and I peeled and cubed a large zucchini in preparation for the evening meal. Before our meal, Nathan from Alaska and Mincha who operates the albergue serenaded the group with guitar and violin music.

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Our supper was pumpkin soup, garden tomatoes and cucumbers with a zucchini quiche followed with a dessert of watermelon and banana served with dark chocolate. A wonderful meal prepared by Ava.

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A Slow Morning, But a Fast Paced Afternoon

Since we did have a hotel room, we decided that we would treat ourselves to having a late morning sleep in, then enjoy a leisurely breakfast. Kay had decided that she was going to spend an extra day enjoying Leon. Chris, Doreen and I enjoyed our cafe con leche and chocolate panne in a small cafe with a wonderful view of the cathedral. After our coffee, we returned to check out and get our backpacks. Thanks to instructions from the hotel manager, we headed for the bus stop. We did lose our sense of direction and walked too far. After asking for directions, we finally located the bus that would take us to the village of La Virgen del Camino. By taking the bus, we were able to avoid walking thru the industrial sections of Leon and stayed away from the highway. It was after 1 pm as we set out from La Virgen del Camino to walk 13.6 kms to Villar de Mazarife where Albergue San Antonio Padua would be our resting place for the day. The weather was on the cool side with a light breeze blowing which made for easier walking. The landscape was not note worthy and there was no vehicle traffic along the country road. Since we had chosen to walk later in the day, there was only one pilgrim that was walking and our paths crossed several times during the afternoon. At one point, we saw a combine harvesting a field of sunflowers.

20120924-213947.jpg At another time, Doreen pointed out a family quail skipping across a field that had just been tilled.

It was close to 5 pm, as we checked in at the Albergue.

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I had just enough time to have a rest before the evening meal. The meal offered by the Albergue was excellent. There was a mixed salad to start, followed by cold tomato soup. The main course was a paella that was all vegetarian. Very flavorful. The meal was rounded out with a crepe that had been spread with orange sauce, drizzled with chocolate and served with a dollop of whip cream. It was delicious!
It is 9:56 and lights are out at 10 pm. Time for my beauty sleep.

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Leon, Spain -Sightseeing and Tapas – A Pictoral

The City

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An Antoni Gaudi Castle

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The Cathedral

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20120924-180200.jpgThe White Virgin restored

20120924-180449.jpgThe original White Virgin

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The Cloisters

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St. Isidore’s Basilica

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The Tapas Bars

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A wonderful Sunday spent in Leon!

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To-o-o Long, To-o-o Hot, To-o-o Rough

The stars still lit the night sky at 6:45 am as we slipped thru the silent streets of Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. It took us a while to find the “yellow arrow” which would tell us that we were on the right track. We had to follow the road for quite a while before we joined the Roman road. There were four of us as we headed toward Mansilla de las Mulas. Kay from Austin, Texas walked with us for the day and will accompany us to Leon. Both Chris and Kay had head lamps which helped to find the way markers and keep us on track. We had reached the bridge over the Arroyo de Valdelcasa as the sun poked its face over the horizon.

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Once the sun was up it was much easier to find the way markers and navigate over the rough stones of the Roman road. At one point, because the road was so rough we walked through the fields that had stubble waiting to be tilled. This made for easier walking until we ran out of field and had to navigate a ditch to make our way back to the stone filled road. The next 15 kms were boring and as one pelegrino said, “this is where we can reflect on the mundane aspects of life.” There was no place to rest or sit. You just had to keep on walking, changing from one side of the road to the other to whatever side offered the easiest track to follow. The landscape was flat. All around were fields that had been baled and were waiting to be tilled. Occasionally, the express train would race down the train track about a half mile away. It was 10:30 when we reached the village of Reliefos where we could rest our tired feet and have the first cafe con leche of the day. As we were entering this village we saw these strange looking hovels built into the hillside.

20120922-211502.jpgWe learned that these structures were bodegas where wine is stored at the correct temperature. The last 6 kms was along the road but on a pathway that provided a better cushion for the feet. This last part of the trek was not too bad because it was tree lined and there was a breeze blowing. We had reserved four beds at the Albergue El Jardin del Camino in the town of Mansilla de las Mulas. Mansilla is derived from the Spanish for “hand” and “saddle” and Mulas refers for the town’s mule market. The town’s crest depicts a hand resting on a saddle.

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After being refreshed by a shower and a siesta, the four of us set out to tour the town. It was still the middle of siesta. The shops were closed and the bars and cafes were the only places where any activity was happening. There are ruins of Roman walls that surround much of the town with three watch towers and one that you could climb up.

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20120922-214709.jpg Chris on left, then Kay and Doreen
There was a statue in one of the plazas that may depict a peligrino on the El Camino.

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Three Weeks of Walking – 315 KMS to Go

After an excellent cup of coffee, we left the hostel at 7:30 am walking thru the quiet street, past the arch of San Benito onto the bridge and through the grove of trees.

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There is a legend about how that grove of trees came to be.
Charlemagne’s troops, preparing for battle with Aigolando, stuck their lances into the ground. When they awoke the next day some of the lances had grown bark and were covered in leafy branches – a sign of martyrdom. Although the lances were cut down, Charlemagne paid no heed and prepared to battle Aigolando. The omen proved true, as Charlemagne lost the battle, along with some 40,000 men. The lances again were stuck in the ground and a grove of trees grew where they had been planted.
Just as we reached the outskirts of Sahagun, there was a painted sign reading

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The walking was along an old Roman road which was very rocky and I found it hard on the feet. The terrain was flat and out in the open sunshine providing little shade. There were no rest stops for coffee or to give the feet a break. We did sit on a cement fence along the way just to have a bit of a break. All that you could do was just plod along. The road was also used by the local farmers and quite often a tractor would pass. The fields have been cut and baled.

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As we were approaching the 12 km mark, we knew we should be close but looking down the road, all we saw was the road turning slightly to the right with a small hill to go over. As we approached the rise of the hill, we could make out a roof top, then another farm building, then finally in the distance the church spire so we knew our destination was a short distance away.
At 11.35 am we arrived at a private Albergue Via Trajana where we had reserved three beds yesterday.
After a rest, I wanted to see if the church was open and I needed to find a supermarket to get some food for tomorrow’s journey as there are no towns for 24.5 kms. As I was walking up the street in the direction of the church, I could smell smoke from a grass fire. I reached the supermarket and was able to get some yogurt, nuts, chocolate and a banana from the store owner.

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I continued in the direction of the church and I could see in the distance the smoke from a field. The wind was quite strong so the fire must have got away from the farmer who was burning the stubble. You could see the farmer circling the fire with the tractor and as I was watching the smoke another tractor rolled by with another villager in the wagon with various tools hanging out the back. There was a small park by the church showing how the Romans crafted the roads. It was in Spanish but the diagrams showed how it was done.

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The church was locked and there was no time on the door so I was not able to see inside. Walking along the streets, there were a lot of building created out of mud and straw.

20120921-185219.jpg I think that this is insulation and when the residents can afford the brick, the brick is put on later. I continued walking thru the village. At one end of the village there was a bar and I went in to see who was enjoying a beer hoping to see some fellow peligrinos. What I found was a card game being played by a group of village men. These are called tute cards and various games can be played. I watched for a few minutes then I resumed my walk.

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I was just about back to the Albergue when I stopped to watch a little boy help his grandmother water the lovely flowers growing in the garden. There was a grandmother, a aunt, a boy and a girl sitting on the entry steps of a house enjoying the afternoon siesta. I started a conversation with the 12 year old girl named Minerva. She told me that she was learning English at school and lived in Leon but today, Friday, she was visiting her mother’s village. She asked about Canada being cold and with snow. She liked the hot temperatures of Spain. Canada would be too cold. She was a delight to talk to and she understood and translated my English into Spanish for her grandmother.

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And finally….

A Tribute To My Papa – Johnathan Grassmick

To the wee tiny baby boy born of Volga Russian German heritage,
To a playful, energetic boy with thirteen siblings,
To the young man with dreams and hopes of more than a sugar beet farm in rural Colorado,
To the war veteran who served the USA as a nose gunner in the South Pacific,
To the lover, husband, confidant, and companion to his wife Vivian for more than 65 years,
To the adventurer who took his young family and two week old daughter named Joy Faith to Canada to follow a new dream,
To the servant who again moved his family of seven children to the woods of Kinick, Alaska because he was asked to serve and give back,
To apprentice who studied hard to become a mechanic to provide for his growing family,
To the business man who with a strong work ethic was the best mechanic and tow truck driver serving the town of Three Hills, Alberta for many years.
To the entrepreneur who followed another dream of living in beautiful Kelowna, British Columbia, who sold his mechanic business and started a construction and excavating business leaving a legacy for his family,
To the Father, the Provider, the Disciplinarian, the Teacher to a family of ten children – five boys, five girls – all beginning with the letter “J”. John, Janet, Jerald, Joy, Jeannie, Joann, James, Jewel, Joel and Jeffery,
To the Grandpa and mentor to over thirty grandchildren and many great grandchildren,
To the retiree who travelled, visited his children and grandchildren and loved to hang out at McDonalds or play Rook, Tile Rummy, or Uno with friends and family. He was a fierce opponent,
To the aged man along with Vivian returned full circle to the town of Three Hills to enjoy familiar surroundings and be close to family and friends,
To the heartbroken man who struggled with the sudden loss of his beloved wife,
To the infirmed man who suffered with loneliness, dementia, and the frustration and limitations of a debilating stroke,
Your journey is finally over. May you Rest In Peace.
Hugs and kisses for Mom.
I am missing and will miss you forever and always, Papa.

With Love,
Joy Faith

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Going Down to Palencia, Then Up to Sahagun Via the Train

The sun was just showing its face as we arrived at the Fromista train station.

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20120920-175353.jpg We planned to reduce some of the Meseta by taking the train to Palencia and then catching a connecting train to the town of Sahagun there by reducing two and a half days of walking time or approximately 60 kms. The missed days involved walking over 25 kms per day over long stretches with no water or food cafes and in very hot 30+ temperatures. We were joined on our train ride to Palencia by Katrina from Sweden who was running out of time and wanted to make sure she had ample time to complete the latter stages and get her certificate in Santiago.
We were crossing a park looking for a cafe open at 9 am in the morning. A woman stopped and asked us if we were Peregrinos. We said yes and were just spending a few hours in Palencia before catching a train to Sahagun. She said that today was a special day in Palencia as there was a celebration commemorating the oldest university in Spain founded in 1212. She also told us to go see the cathedral and pointed us in the correct direction. As we approached the cathedral we could see barriers and numerous police figures walking about. The doors to the cathedral were open and we enjoyed a tour and a chat with a priest enquiring where we were from. The cathedral was beautiful and preparations were being made for the celebration. Just as we exited the cathedral, the doors were closed.

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20120920-184043.jpgUpon exiting the church we noticed more and more of a police presence. We went into a cafe across from the cathedral to watch. They blocked off access to the cathedral by alternating police vehicles in the street.

20120920-184416.jpgI think they were anticipating student riots as just as we were leaving, a group of students were setting off firecrackers and there was some demonstrating about education being a right for all.

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The train ride to Sahagun reminded me of Saskatchewan prairie. We arrived to a hot 32 degrees. The initial town arose due to the adjacent Benedictine monastery consecrated to the saints Facundus and Primitivus. The name Sahagún is derived from an abbreviation and variation on the name San Fagun (“Saint Facundus”). This town was very important in the eleventh and twelfth centuries when it was famous for wheat, week long open air markets and the Vat of Sahagun, a huge trough of wine. The arch of San Benito was an entry to the Monasterio de San Benito the most powerful Benedictine monastery in Spain, controlling over 100 other monasteries. This is where it’s benefactor Alfonso VI is buried.

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Chris asked two elderly ladies about the arch and from there followed a discussion of visiting the monastery and taking us home to feed us.

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Lydia, you would have been proud of your Spanish students. You can tell the class tomorrow that these ladies can hold their own having a conversation with two elderly Spanish ladies. They were a delight! They just about had us going to the monastery for the monks to feed and shelter us.

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Our evening ended with cookies and coffee.

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Lydia, I have another question for you. When we were in Palencia, I took the following picture by a church. Can you tell me who they are and what they are depicting?

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Fromista with a car advantage

Our host at the Casa Rural where we (Chris, Doreen and I) stayed gave us a big boost this morning by driving us to Itero de la Vega which meant that we did not have to traverse the hill and we got to enjoy breakfast before setting out.

We were on the road by 8:00 am. You can tell that Fall is in the air as the morning was quite brisk.
It was lovely to walk in the early morning light as the sunlight lit the hills and rendered the fields a golden color. At about 5.5 kms we crested a hill and were happy that we could see Boadilla del Camino in the distance.

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It took another hour and fifteen minutes before we reached the village of Boadilla del Camino. This is where we had wanted to stay but it was full so we needed to head for Fromista a much bigger city. We needed a cafe con leche in the worst way. As we passed the Albergue En El Camino, they were offering breakfast. This was the best breakfast I have had so far on the El Camino. Eduardo provided a huge plate of eggs with ham and a humongous cup of coffee. Totally awesome!

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After a delightful half hour break talking with a couple from Australia and a single young lady from Denmark, we needed to complete the final 6 kms to Fromista. It was an enjoyable walk along a canal with a brisk wind at our backs. It was about 12:45 pm when we entered the city. We entered over a lock bridge. There were a series of five locks built in the 1800’s and was used to transport grain. Fromista is considered the bread basket of the region of Palencia. Fromista has had this role since Roman times.

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There is a lovely church – San Martin – that has been fully restored and it is located in the centre of this city.

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Doreen and Chris were enjoying drinks in the plaza where the patron saint – San Telmo – was displayed guiding all the seafarers on their journeys.

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We had a lightsupper (at least it was supposed to be light) There was a huge plate of mixed salad along with the best tortilla with caramelized onions. Yum! Yum!
Lydia, I know you are reading this blog. Just to let you know, the shoes you left are awfully big to fill but I am enjoying the company of Doreen and Chris and will probably tag along with them for a little while. We miss you as we don’t find out the gossip of all the travellers along the way!!!

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28.6 kms – The Body Says Way Too Many

For a small village, Rabe de las Calzados sure knows how to party. All night in fact! Just adjacent from our open window, that home was party central. Since no one in the room got much sleep we were up at 5 am and ready to set off at 6 am just as the lights from the house were being turned off. Two ladies, one from the US and the other a Aussie had head lamps so it was easy to keep their lights in sight on the dark path.

As the dawn broke, we entered the village of Hornillos del Camino hoping to find a bar open for a cafe con leche. Instead a grocer was just opening his doors which offered snacks, juice and fruit.
The next stop was not for 10.1 kms at Hontanas. This was a tiny village set into hillside in a small coulee. I was able to rest and have two cafe con leche. The dynamic duo were just leaving as I was arriving. The trail had been quite busy with pilgrims and a tour group from Germany had chosen a 5.5 km section to hike. The bus brought them to Hontanas and they walked to San Anton.

San Anton is the ruins of a monastery and church which was used by the pilgrims in the 1100’s. It was also a hospital that kept many people with leprosy a very common disease in those years.

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As I came to these ruins, the dynamic duo were sitting in a secluded corner just finishing lunch. They asked if I was planning on staying at the Albergue here. I told them that my plan was to walk another 3.8 kilometers to the town of Castrojeriz. By this time, I had completed over 25 kms and my left knee was protesting loudly. Doreen and Chris said I could walk with them and since it was so late – after 12 noon – the possibility of getting a Albergue room was slim. The walk through this town is over a kilometer in length. The city is built like a three tier birthday cake along the side of a hill.

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High on a hill above the village is the ruin of an old castle which was built in the 9th century by the Romans.

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We walked into the upper part of the village and went to all three albergues but they were all full. We finally found a hostel with three beds at a reasonable price. I was tired having walked from 6 am. I had a quick shower and participated in the afternoon siesta. At 5 pm, I went in search of a pharmacy for a knee brace which hopefully should help.

We had an early supper at a bar that had formally been used as a wine press.

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20120918-221957.jpgA painting of the wine press

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Slow start and Short Distance

I am angry with myself but I have reached my planned destination for the day of Rabe de las Calzados – 13.3 kms. I was going to set off at first light around 7 am but my plans went awry because I didn’t wake up until 7:30. Since the hotel breakfast started at 8 am, I decided to take a few minutes, have some coffee and cheese and bread before starting my walk. It was 8:30 when I dropped the key off at the front desk and hit the streets. The city was just beginning to wake up and people were starting to head to work. It took about 50 minutes to reach the outskirts of Burgos. As I left the city there was one last bronze of St. James.

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Two days of rest was probably too much as my body seemed sluggish and it was hard to set a good pace. Once Burgos was left behind the country side opened up into farmland. I walked by a field of fresh cut clover. There was that delightful smell of fresh mowed grass. Farther along a farmer with helper was baling a field that had dried a golden yellow color. It must have been feed for cows although I didn’t see any. I saw very few pilgrims on the way and there were no bars open offering coffee.

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Just as I walked into the bar in Rabe, the now dynamic duo of Doreen and Chris were just getting geared up for the 8 km hike to the next village where they were planning to stay. They had had a long break and although it was noon wanted to press onward. I had decided to stay in the village and I did not want to walk 8 kms in the 85 degree heat.
This is a small village with only two private albergues. I am staying at Liberanos Domine which has only 24 beds. The bar I am sitting in is the only place in the village that has WIFI. There is some type of holiday happening today as there is no school and the courtyard of the bar is full of teenagers and town folk having a good time.

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As I am sitting at the bar, I am trying to converse with the lovely 18 year old young lady tending the bar. Her name is Sorivel. Her mother is from the Dominican Republic and her father is Spanish and the owner of the bar. Sorivel would much rather be lyming with her friends but she has to manage the bar till her father returns from Burgos.

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I was talking to another young man by the name of Alberto. He told me that in November he was going to Beijing, China as he could not find work as an architect. He had been out of work since he finished school over a year ago and it has been difficult to find work in Spain.

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For a small village they really do know how to have a festival. I am sure the whole village has come out for this celebration from old to young.

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I enjoyed the evening and was late for the 10 pm curfew.

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A Day Of Rest and A Museum

I happened to leave my hotel window open last evening which was a mistake because it was early morning – like 5 am before the street noise became quiet.

I was up and out of the hotel as I wanted to see the quiet side. The only people up and about were the pilgrims leaving the city and the street cleaners washing the streets and collecting the garbage from the streets. By 9 am the bakery and pastry shops were beginning to open for the early risers.

I had a cafe con leche and a chocolate pastry at the first shop I found open. I just wandered the streets and the park across the river heading to where the museum of Evolution was.

This is the museum that shows the caves and the human findings discovered around the area of Atapuerca where I had stayed several days before. There is a 7 kilometer stretch of limestone caves, some going to a depth of 25 metres with the lowest level of caves dating back 2.5 million years, the middle series hold findings dating back to 1.5 million and the highest series of caves date to about 1 million years ago. The first fossilized human remains were discovered in 2007 and with cosmosgenic nuclide testing have been dated to 1.3 million years ago and have been termed Homo antecessor or “explorer”. These humanoids were believed to be the first major migration from the homo genuswho left the Rift Valley in Africa. The Homo antecessor species emerged in this western part of Europe after many thousand of years of isolation from the original population.

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The museum also displayed the human brain and the neurons as they fire in nano seconds.

20120916-222737.jpgthe lights are neurons of the brain firing
There was also a display on DNA and the origin of life from central Africa and the migration throughout the world. There were displays on symbolism and the important role it plays in each culture. Also adornment and portable art has been found dating back 400,000 thousand years to the time of Homo heidelbergenis. This picture of a perforated mollusk shell dates back 100,000 years ago. Even back then they were thinking of the Camino!

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It was nearing siesta time when I exited the museum. I spent a few minutes watching people and the water display in the fountain,

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Upon returning to the hotel, there was a note from the Fab 3 saying that they would meet me at my hotel at 6pm and we could have supper together. I rested and got my pack ready for tomorrow. I made sure my water bladder was clean and filled.
The Fab 3 and I went to the Plaza Mayor for supper. I had a series of tapas and the ladies ordered from the menu. Lydia is leaving the group to return to England. Doreen and Chris are continuing to walk so our paths will cross again.

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20120916-224621.jpgChris on left, Doreen in purple and Lydia on the right
After supper we strolled a bit of the promenade then found a chocolate shop where Doreen and I had chocolate, I had my chocolate with churros and Lydia and Chris had expresso. We watched the people promenade in their Sunday finery.
I hugged each of the ladies goodbye, letting each know that it was a joy to know the Fab 3.

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