Mercadoiro – Albergue La Bodeguina

It was an early start in the dark around 7:30 am. Don’t know why but the albergue cleared out really fast with me being one of the last to leave. I didn’t want to leave too early because I have no head lamp. I used my small flashlight to find the yellow arrows and it was ok as more pilgrims joined the path.

It was a mild but cloudy day with rain that threatened but did not materialize. I passed under bridges and over train tracks in the early morning.

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There were a lot more pilgrims on the path and I had to also listen for the bikes. Today was much the same as the previous day with lots of shaded woodland with chestnut and oak trees along side brooks of water.

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There were corn fields and cattle grazing. The brand of cattle here has a neck waddle which I thought was different.

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I did pass the 100 km marker, so now I am less than 95 kms to go to reach Santiago.

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At the 16 km mark I reached my resting place for the day. It was about 1:00 pm. My bed was in a room of six beds and in total there are only three other women staying for the night. Mary is from Scotland and Sabina is from Australia and a younger woman named Rachel.

It was nice to relax with no site seeing agenda, have an enjoyable meal and an early night.

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At 9:00 pm, Sabina, Mary and I had just finished our evening meal and retired to our room. Rachel had already retired for the night. The albergue managers had left. We were preparing for bed when all of a sudden there was this loud banging on the downstairs door. Sabina went down to the door and there were three pilgrims who were wanting a bed for the night. They took beds in the bottom part of the albergue and that was the last we heard because we were long gone before the albergue opened the next morning.

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Sarria – The Last Leg Begins

The bells at the Monastery of Samos were peeling eight bells as I left Albergue Val de Samos (one of the nicest on the Camino) on my way to Sarria which is the starting point of the last leg of the Camino. In order to qualify for a credential you must have a stamp from each albergue in the village/city you stay until you reach Santiago. It will also be very busy on the paths as several routes converge here going toward Santiago.

The route from Samos to Sarria was very tranquil and most enjoyable. Again, I was walking through shaded groves of chestnut and oak trees. Only six pilgrims passed me. There were no bars along this stretch so I did not have any cafe con leche.

20121005-204055.jpgThe surrounding landscape was again pastoral. The only sounds I could hear were the birds, the roosters crowing, the bells from the grazing cows and the occasional tractor out in the field harvesting corn.

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It was 13.8 kms to Sarria and it is the last two that always seem the longest. The first bar was at San Mamed del Camino where the Samos path mets the original Camino Frances path. By this time, I only had 2.5 kms to go, so I trudged onward. The path at this point was also much busier with pilgrims scurrying along. To me Sarria does not have the weathered look of some of the other cities. The old part does not seem as interesting. There is a remnant of a castle turret but I could not get access.

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I did enjoy the stroll along the river. The one tough spot was climbing the 48 steps back up to the albergue. I would like to know why many of these villages and cities are always on levels and there is so much climbing especially when I am so tired???

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Onward to Santiago.

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Time to Say Goodbye – Solo to Samos

The following song was running thru my mind this morning as I set out for Samos.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uyEn792JuM

This morning I said goodbye to Doreen and Chris as they had a deadline for reaching Santiago and I am quite flexible as to when I finish and I wanted to see the monastery in Samos. We met for breakfast before they left for the path on the right to Sarria and I took the path on the left to Samos.

20121004-204752.jpgDoreen on left, Chris in the middle and Penny on the right
Thank you Chris for all the phone calls you made on my behalf. I admire you for your stamina, integrity and joy of living old gracefully. I hope that I am walking 21 km days when I get to be your age. (I won’t say your age but I have a few years to go).
Doreen, I admire your gentleness and nurturing nature. I feel you are a kindred spirit and am blessed to know you. Thank you both for letting me tag along with you from Burgos. I wish you both well and I will keep posting so you know where I am along the El Camino.

Taking the left path to Samos was the best decision for me. It is what I envisioned the El Camino would be like. The majority of the time I had the path to myself. For the whole morning I met only nine pilgrims. It was wonderful to walk beside the Oribrio river and under the leafy umbrella of the chestnut and oak trees. There were no stops for cafe con leche as there were no bars along the way. There were several villages along the river with garden plots and grazing cattle. I stopped often to capture pictures and to just listen to the birds. At one spot, near a waterfall, I startled a blue heron from its trout watching perch. Pictures along the Samos path.

20121004-211355.jpgThis snail was carrying his pack too!

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This is what I came to see.

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Founded during the Visigothic era, the Benedictine rule was first introduced to the monastery by monks from San Juan de la Peña in Aragon in the 10th century. By the Middle Ages, it had become one of the wealthiest and most powerful of all the monasteries on the peninsula, controlling some 300 lesser monasteries, 100 churches and drawing its support provided by the rents from 200 towns and villages. Besides educating the sons of the nobility, a task it shared with every other Benedictine monastery in Europe, Samos also maintained an important pilgrim´s hospice, a pharmacy, a forge, and numerous farms. Its “Feijoo cloister”, named after the monastery´s most famous monk, the 18th century scholar, university professor and encyclopaedist Benito Jerónimo Feijoo y Montenegro, is the largest in all of Spain.

The monastery was severely damaged in a fire that swept through it in 1536. It was rebuilt gradually over a period of 200 years. A second fire in 1951 caused further damage, destroying the library and the monastery refectory.

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There were wonderful murals painted on the cloister walls. I will just post a few of the many.

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The tour was conducted in Spanish, so I didn’t understand a lot.

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It was wonderful to walk the pathways along the river. I was able to capture some reflections of the trees and, also, the huge pumpkin ready for Halloween.

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It was a wonderful day! Tranquil comes to mind. Nourished the soul.

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The View From O’Cebreieo; The Rain and Mist to Triacastela

I am combining October 2 and 3 for two reasons: there was no WIFI in O’Cebreiro and I could not post and second today was spent walking in the rain. I think I took a total of five pictures and that was after I got to Tricastela.

The walk to O’Cebreiro was just fantastic. It was clear, sunny and warm. There were stunning pastoral views on both sides of the valley. One the Leon Castilla and the other the Galicia Santiago.

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It was truly beautiful to look over the valleys seeing the shades of green and being in awe as to how far we have travelled.

O’Cebreiro is in the top twenty of the places to see in Spain. The hamlet’s round, thatch-roofed pallozas are a distinctive form of rural architecture once found across Celtic lands from Africa to Scotland. Their round walls and conical thatched roofs aerodynamically deflect the strong mountain winds. Chimneys would interfere with the tight weather defences, so smoke escapes through the thatch itself curing the sausages and hams that hang from the ceiling as the smoke escapes.

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O’Cebreiro has sheltered pilgrims from mountain storms for centuries. The focal point of the village is the Iglesias de Santa Maria built atop ruins if a Romanesque church. It is believed that the Holy Grail from which Christ drank at the Last Supper was hidden here for safe keeping in the Middle Ages. According to legend, it is said that a German Pilgrim gone astray in the countryside surrounding the river Valcarce, shrouded in dense fog halts and hears in the distance from high up the strains of a bagpipe. It was the “alala” played by a shepard in the hamlet of O’Cebreiro. It was the Shepard with his sanitize notes that drew the pilgrim to the Holy Grail. Although the grail is no longer here, the remains of the flesh and blood are held in a silver reliquary donated by Queen Isabel.

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St. Francis of Assisi journeyed thru O’Cebreiro on his way to Santiago.

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Outside the church, a bust of Elias Valina has a very special place. Valina was a local parish priest who wrote important books in the Camino and we a driving force behind its revival during the 1960s and 1970s. He also did much to preserve O’Cebreiro’s palloza architecture. He was the person responsible to introducing the directional yellow arrows along the Camino.

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From a sunny, clear day, we awoke to rain and the valley shrouded in mist. That was the majority of the 21.3 kms to Triacastela. It was all down hill and at places the going was extremely rocky and slippery. We made it into Triacastela at about 3:30 pm. It was sure nice to have a hot shower and some warming food. Triacastela is a small village that once was home to three castles from which comes the name. The highlight of the day was being part of a jam session of four old gentlemen in a bar just outside our albergue. It was most enjoyable to see the enjoyment these men had playing and singing together.

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It is moments like this that add meaning to the El Camino.

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The Low Road to Vega de Valcarce

This was a decision day. There were three choices available: the Dragonte route with three elevation gains of 400 m, the Pradela route with one elevation gain of 330 m, and the low road following the highway and walking on the asphalt for half the way.

Chris and Doreen took the Pradela route and enjoyed the views of mist covered valleys. They enjoyed the walk but were tired when they arrived at the municipal albergue in Vega de Valcarce.

I took the low road out of Villafranca del Bierzo which followed the main highway and a secondary road winding in and out. The harvest moon was just setting as I left the village.

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Looking back toward the East, dawn was breaking and I could see the castle outlined against the horizon.

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The sun took a long time to reach into the valley and it was chilly. I even had to put my gloves on for a bit. I am just going to post some of the pictures I took along the way.

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At Trabadelo there were piles of logs that had been cut and further along a small saw mill.

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The village of Vega de Valcarce has a huge bridge that passes over the village and spans the valley. It is really quite impressive.

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There is an old castle ruin high on a hill above the village.

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And lastly, I was able to enjoy the beauty of the roses still blooming in a garden along the road.

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Enjoying the Grape Harvest on the Road to Villafranca del Bierzo

Before setting out Doreen, Chris and I walked from our hostel to the corner panaderia for cafe con leche and a pan o chocolate. We had just entered the shop and a boisterous group of guys came in. They were loud and it was obvious that they had been up all night. Chris found out that they were celebrating a stag.

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It was a delightful walk thru wine country. Everywhere you looked you could see vineyards with the rows of grapes. Today as we walked along we were able to see the workers in the fields picking mainly purple grapes although there was a few white. I was able to sample the varieties along the path and the ones I picked were juicy and sweet. I will just post some pictures to show just how beautiful it was.

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We arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo at 2:40 pm. In the Middle Ages, the town is first mentioned in 791. The origin of the modern town are connected to the Way of St. James, as a rest place for the pilgrims which started to reach Santiago de Compostela from the 9th century. In the Codix Calixtinus Villafranca is mentioned as an intermediate stage between Rabornal and Triacastela. In 1070, during the reign of Alfonso VI of León, a Cluniac monastery was founded here to cultivate vine, and a borough of French pilgrim rose around it, from which the town’s name (meaning “French Town”) stems. The town later received numerous hotels and hospitals for the pilgrims.
Since it is Sunday, none of the attractions were open. I just walked around looking at different coat of arms, the various churches, the narrow streets, and the castle which is privately owned and was not open to the public.

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We did get to sample the wine made from the delicious grapes that were being harvested.

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Ponferrada and the Templar Castle – 547.3 kms Completed

We left our albergue in Acebo at 7:30 am. You could just barely find the yellow arrows as we left this tiny hillside village. The trek today was going to be all downhill. About 3 kms down the road, I was able to get this awesome sunrise shot with the roadside cross in silhouette.

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The trail left the road and winded down the hillside. The going was tough as there was loose rock and large rock that had to be traversed. The landscape was beautiful. It reminded me a lot of Creston and Okanagan. Lots of orchards and vineyards.

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<a The python burl
The last section of downhill into the town of Molinaseca was extremely steep and the going was slow.

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Molinaseca was a charming village where we had brunch and a rest before heading to our final destination of Ponferrada.

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It was almost 3 pm by the time we reached Ponferrada. Thankfully siesta was happening, so we had time for a short rest and shower before we toured the old town and the Templar Castle. Enjoy the pictures as it was truly outstanding to walk thru and around,

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One picture that I was able to capture was of a group of elderly people sitting in the plaza people watching but also shading their faces from the afternoon sun. Too cute!

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And, one last picture of the castle with the full moon rising,

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Highest Point on El Camino – 42 ° 29’20 “N 6 ° 21’41” W

It was another early morning, getting up at 6:30 am to be ready for cafe con leche at 7:00 am and starting to follow the yellow arrows at 7:30 am. We knew our trek today would have a 300 metre rise in elevation and a “killer” downhill into our destination village of Acebo.

For the first 6 kms the pathway was easygoing leaving the open fields and heading into groves of oak, mountain ash and scrub pine. There was no sun peeking thru the clouds today. It even looked to be threatening to rain.

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Our first village was Foncebadon which thanks to the number of pilgrims in recent years has revived the economy of this village.

20120928-165635.jpgThis provided an opportunity for more coffee before trudging onward.

20120928-165922.jpgThe first building you see entering the village

Our next stop would be 2 kms further on when we reached 1,505 m, the highest point of the El Camino at the La Cruz de Ferro. It consists of a roble oak pole about twenty feet high topped by a cross of iron replica of the original preserved in the Museum of the Ways of Astorga . At its base, a huge mound of rock has formed. Legend has it that when they built the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela they urged pilgrims to contribute by bringing stone. In any case, the tradition is to throw a stone, brought from the place of origin of the pilgrim, with his back to the cross to symbolize that which has been left behind. Also, pilgrims have left messages and mementos to memorialize their journey to Santiago. This cross had special meaning for Chris and Doreen as they left a memorial to their friend Carol who was to have walked with them but had passed away very suddenly.

20120928-171200.jpgChris and Doreen remembering their friend, Carol. You would have loved walking this journey, Carol. Rest in Peace

Since I had a felt marker, I, too, left a message on a large rock on the surrounding mound of rock.

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The remaining 10.9 kms would all be downhill and at times very steep with loose shale. About 2.2 kms on this downward trek, we stopped at an Albergue in Manjarin.

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Read about Tomas http://www.forobicigrino.com/t3079-tomas-el-hospitalero-de-manjarin
I did find my knight in shining armour!

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Also, a fabulous Templar Knight poster.

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As we journeyed downward the surrounding views were awe inspiring. The clouds were like fingers floating down over the hills and the pathway was lined with heather and wild lavender. From this height, I observed formations on the hillside and although I was quite a distance away it did look like it was created by someone or something,

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<a This is the mystery hill

20120928-175306.jpgNotice the perfect circle on the hillside

Also, in the distance, I could see a tiny village nestled in the valley with a road leading to it.

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The last kilometre was the worst for the feet and the knees but from the top of the hill, Acebo rooftops appeared. This area is known for slate mining and the majority of the roofs of the village are slate.

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Walking thru the village, I even saw some roofers laying the slate. No scaffolding, or safety lines for these workers.

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Our evening was completed by a vegetarian meal prepared by the owner of a Casa Rural called La Trucha. This man and wife met seven years ago on the Camino and have made Acebo their home. They rent rooms and feed guests a four course vegetarian meal. The table was a delight to sit at, elegantly set.

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The appetizer was a goat cheese spread on wedges of gluten free bread.

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Followed by a garbonzo soup with toasted sesame seeds.

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Main course was a mixed salad that had lettuce, corn, avocado, onion, diced apple, cucumber, peppers, carrots, and sliced olives served with garden fresh tomatoes in balsamic vinegar.

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And dessert was an almond cheesecake drizzled with chocolate and topped with strawberries.

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The evening was complete with a spectacular sunset!!

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“And so we plow along, as the fly said to the ox.” -Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1807-1882)

One step at a time with a little help once and a while. Our albergue was in a old renovated building and everything squeaked. The door, the floors, the pipes, even the bed frames squeaked. It was hard to get to sleep and stay asleep. I had just gotten into a sound sleep and the early risers were already starting to stir to get a head start on their day.

Doreen is recovering from a cold and did not want to walk too far today, so we hailed a taxi for the first 10 kms. We started walking in Santa Catalina de Somoza.

20120927-172037.jpgThe sun was shining but that south wind was still making my eyes water and I did have three layers on. We stopped at El Ganso for a cafe con leche at a Western bar with an elderly gaucho making the coffee. There was all kinds of western apparel and accessories hanging from the ceiling and the walls.

Our walk continued on a path parallel to the road. In the distance you could see the hills that we would have to climb tomorrow. The skyline was dotted with the wind turbines, some gently turning in the wind.

20120927-172855.jpgAs the morning warmed, we had to stop to shed clothing. Often along the way, you happen upon rock formations that others have made. I added “joy” to this heart.

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About 2 kms from Rabanal del Camino the path was thru a woodland where the canopy of trees provided a shaded walk. Along the path there was a fence and pilgrims had added crosses into the wire of the fence.

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Doreen and I added our own crosses made of twigs, oak branches, a dried orchid blossom and some heather.

20120927-173616.jpgMy twig cross

20120927-173709.jpgDoreen’s cross
There is not much in this little village. It is a good resting place before climbing the highest point of 1,505m on the El Camino. Tonight the Benedictine monks will do a concert of gregorian chants and then it will be an early night for an early start in the morning. The weather is supposed to be clear but cool. The view at the La Cruz de Ferro should be awesome.

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Astorga – With The Brisk Southwesterly

Our room was so quiet, that we all overslept. It was 7:30 am before any one got up. We had a bit of breakfast and were out the door of the albergue just as the yoga class started for those who were staying. The western sky had heavy dark clouds but the sun was trying to warm our backs as we started down the road.

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The country was rolling hills scattered with fields of hay and grapes. At Santibanez de Valdeiglesia there was a large cooperative operating as some of the fields had grapes, there was an apple orchard, a large barn with cattle being fed and large rolled bales piled for feed.

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20120926-215106.jpg You could tell the fall season is in full swing as workers were in the orchards picking the fruit and grapes. The day was enjoy able for walking but the southwesterly made it a bit chilly and my eyes and nose were running.

We stopped at the Cruceiro de Santo Toribio, the cross on the hill before descending into San Justo de la Vega and the city of Astorga.

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We registered at the albergue San Javier and then went to tour the Cathedral and Gaudi castle.

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Lydia, we did not see the stained glass windows in the church in San Justo. The doors were locked and were not open until half an hour before evening mass. Judging from the windows from the outside, they must have been spectacular from the inside.

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